A LEMON TREE ON FIRE – Score: 7/10
Bunnahabhain is usually the gentle soul of Islay. Founded in 1881 in a remote bay on the island’s north-east coast, it built its reputation on largely unpeated, nutty and sherried malts — the whisky you pour for a friend who claims to hate Islay. But every so often the distillery lights a match, and this nine-year-old from 2014 belongs firmly to its smoky side.
Nose the glass and the image arrives almost at once: a lemon tree caught in a bonfire. Bright citrus — lemon zest, a little grapefruit pith — leaps out first, then the peat smoke rolls in behind it, crackling rather than crushing. A waxy, paraffin note gives the aroma a candle-like roundness, while something woody and bitter, like charred tree bark, reminds you that the fire has truly taken hold.
The palate follows the same script with real energy. Sharp citrus and smouldering peat trade blows, the waxy texture softening the edges and carrying the flavours further than you might expect from a whisky of this age. Bark and a gentle bitterness build towards the finish, which is medium in length, smoky and pleasantly zesty, the citrus glowing like embers once the flames have died down.
Not the most complex Bunnahabhain you will ever taste, and a little youthful bite is still showing, but the contrast between fruit and fire is lively and well judged. A fine reminder that even the quietest distillery on the island can put on quite a show when it wants to.
