AN ABANDONED GARDEN – Score: 7/10
Dalmore has never truly stood among my favourite distilleries, yet it would be unwise to close the door to exploration. From time to time, one may stumble upon a singular treasure, a hidden gem that emerges from the multitude of offerings and rewards the curious palate.
This particular independent bottling, released by Ian McLeod under his distinguished “The Chieftain’s” series, grants us precisely such an occasion: the chance to savour an unusual interpretation of Dalmore, matured with care in red wine casks. Such a choice of maturation, somewhat atypical for this distillery, invites both surprise and reflection, promising a departure from the more conventional house style.
Bottled at a robust 54.8% after thirteen years of aging, it strikes an admirable balance for a cask strength expression. The level of alcohol is sufficient to preserve vitality and intensity, while age lends harmony and poise, allowing the dram to reveal its full complexity without aggression.
On the palate, the whisky unfolds in a progression both rich and evocative. It first presents leguminous notes reminiscent of cooked beans, followed by the freshness of damp forest moss and the gentle sweetness of wild strawberries. These initial impressions give way to a more profound crescendo, where the character of Burgundy wine emerges with remarkable intensity—silken, deep, and lingering. The finale then withdraws gracefully into the noble austerity of seasoned wood, sharpened by a subtle sprinkling of Sichuan pepper that leaves a delicate tingle upon the tongue.
The result is a whisky of notable equilibrium and considerable depth, a dram that succeeds in holding one’s attention through its contrast of rustic simplicity and refined elegance. Admirably composed, it provides a refreshing counterpoint to the often tiresome and somewhat uninspired official releases of Dalmore, offering instead a profile that is at once distinctive, engaging, and thought-provoking.
