A COSTLY CONSENSUS – Score: 6.5/10
Today we turn to the tasting of what has become something of an institution. Bunnahabhain XVIII has secured its place as one of the acknowledged benchmarks on the whisky market and stands as a defining expression of its generation, often cited with a reverence that borders on the ceremonial.
Bunnahabhain is traditionally known for producing unpeated whiskies—an uncommon stance on the island of Islay, where peat is practically a cultural signature. Its twelve-year-old expression enjoys widespread recognition, while the eighteen-year-old has long captured my attention with a mix of curiosity and anticipation, its reputation preceding each encounter.
Let us therefore taste it and determine whether its song truly matches its plumage, and whether this bottle’s acclaim is rightly earned or quietly overstated.
The texture calls to mind that of the twelve-year-old: waxy, delicately coated, and notably light. The same hallmarks reappear with remarkable fidelity—raisins, soft powdery notes, and a finish that blends chocolate with gentle wood tones. A subtle, fleeting essence of mint weaves itself through the experience, offering a refreshing counterpoint and adding a touch of refinement.
Yet despite these agreeable qualities, the whisky ultimately reveals a surprising lightness on the palate, one that borders on fragility. Its length, while pleasant in its first moments, proves somewhat underwhelming, leaving an impression that is elegant but undeniably ephemeral.
